First Tour

Introduction

Krysia was away at a health farm for a week.  I was at home, on holiday from work with my son Seth.  We were at a bit of a loose end so I said "d’you fancy nipping over to France for a few days with the bikes and a tent?".  He said ‘whatever’, so I nipped into town for a map and out to Halford's for something to carry my luggage in.  I made some phone calls and found there was a ferry from Ramsgate to Dunkirk the next morning.

 

I'd had a bike a few years and had done a bit of leisure riding.  I had taken the kids on a couple of holidays in the car with a tent and the bikes but I'd never toured on a bike before.  In fact, I wasn't really aware that anyone toured with a tent and a bike.

 

The Bikes

My bike was a 1993 Shogun Trailbreaker 2.  It was chosen for me by the insurance company when my Claude Butler mountain bike was stolen from my shed.  I’d bought the Claude Butler whilst on a cycling holiday, from the first shop I came across after my previous bike was stolen in Brighton.  The previous bike was an Emelle bought on impulse when I was buying the kids bikes for Christmas.  The Trailbreaker 2 was a fairly heavy steel rigid "mountain bike"; it had a 28/38/48 chain set and a 12-28 screw hub.  The only modification was a Brooks Champion Flyer saddle; it still had the knobbly tyres.

 

Not everybody's ideal touring bike but I carried on using it (though with evolving modifications) until 2008.  A very comfortable, stable bike.

Seth's bike was a Marin Bear Valley mountain bike.  Lightweight rigid steel bike with a 22/32/44 chain set and a 12-34 cassette.

Equipment

Luggage carrying

 

I bought cheap (the cheapest I could find) rear racks from Halfords.  Fairly flimsy but they seemed to be adequate.  For my bike I also bought a rack for the front.  With no previous experience of such things I chose one designed to carry the load fairly high (ie not a low rider) because the platform at the top seemed useful.

 

I bought a Halford's "pannier set" for my rear rack.  This consisted of two side panniers (each with a small additional pocket), linked together with a rectangular shaped bag across the top.  This was all secured to the rack using straps (no quick release with these panniers).  The tent and another bag were tied to the top.

 

I also bought a cheap pannier set for the front of my bike.  This consisted of two side panniers linked across the top with canvas.  I also had a cheap bar bag which was just strapped to the bars.

 

I didn't get any panniers for Seth's bike.  Instead, we bundled the two sleeping bags, with our “evening” clothes laid flat between them, into two rubble bags (one on each side but overlapping in the middle) which were bungied to the rear rack.  Not conventional but it worked well enough.

 

Tools spares and accessories

 

My memory is a bit hazy on this but as far as I recall this consisted of a puncture repair kit and some very basic tools (e.g. Allen Keys, couple of open-ended spanners, pliers). 

I had a cheap D-Lock.

 

Camping Equipment

 

The tent: a three-man dome tent from Millets.  The tent I'd been using for camping holidays with the car.  It was heavy (probably about 4 or 5 kg) but roomy.

 

Sleeping bags: these were bulky synthetic bags not really intended for cycle-camping trips.  They didn't really roll up very small so were draped across Seth's rear rack.

 

Sleeping mats:  mine was an ex-Army foam mat and Seth's a flimsy, lightweight foam mat from Millets.

 

Cooking Equipment

 

·                     EPI-gas stove

·                     2 army surplus mess-tins

·                     Kettle

·                     an enamel mug and a plastic mug

·                     two each knife, fork and spoon

 

 

Miscellaneous

 

Camera: Olympus OM10

Lights: front and rear cheap Halford's lights for each bike.

Wash bag: soap, disposable razor, toothbrushes, toothpaste.

Towels: normal small household towels

 

Clothes

 

I hadn't discovered cycling specific gear at this time so we cycled in pretty-normal clothing (varied between shorts, tracksuit bottoms and cord trousers; long and short sleeve tops).  Additional "evening wear" (including jacket, shirt & trousers(!) – laid out flat between the sleeping bags).  Also, plastic rainproof jackets.  Seth had a pair of trainers and I had a pair of boots.

 

The Tour

Day 1

 

Getting to Dunkerque

 

We had packed the car the night before and were up and away before five.  We arrived in Ramsgate in plenty of time.  I had not thought about where I was going to leave the car so I looked for a multi-storey car park close to the port.  I found one quite quickly which was open but deserted.  There was no one to ask about whether I could leave a car for several days and the notices weren't very helpful.  Another car came in and I asked whether they knew the score.  The guy said I could park down on the port - now why didn't I think of that?

 

Down to the port where we found a parking space, which was free!  Unloaded the bikes and rode to the terminal.  I bought 2 return tickets for £6 each and joined the queue for the boat.  We were directed to a lane of our own and when boarding commenced we were waved in first.  Up the ramp and right to the other end of the boat where we lashed the bikes to a side rail with heavy ropes.  Then to the restaurant for breakfast.

 

Breakfast was an eat-as-much-as-you-like buffet.  Incredible value for money (despite me being a vegetarian at the time) especially if you were fuelling up for a cycling tour.  I spent the entire 3 hour journey reading my Guardian and eating breakfast.  We also stocked up on sachets of hot chocolate.

 

Dunkerque to Watten

 

On arrival at Dunkerque we were waved off down the ramp first.  A short ride across the port and straight out on to a French country road.  We crossed a roundabout and stopped to sort ourselves out and change into our ‘riding clothes’.  Whilst we did so, all the cars on the ferry went past leaving a very quiet road.  However, we turned off almost immediately onto the even quieter D301.

 

At breakfast I had looked at the map and noticed the canal heading south towards St Omer and thought it would be a good start to our first ride in France.  We took the D301 to Bourbourg where we turned right on to the D2 and then turned left down the road on the east bank of the canal.

 

It was a very pleasant gentle ride, probably the flattest ride I’d ever been on; that says something living in Essex!  At Watten we saw a sign to a campsite.  Although, we'd not even travelled 20 miles we decided to go for it.  The campsite was about 2 miles west of Watten on the D207.  A fairly small campsite mainly for tourists most of whom had cars and tents.

 

I'd intended to cook our evening meal but I couldn't really be bothered to set off again to find a shop and anyway there was a very nice looking restaurant on the site.  Fairly basic and the eating area was under canvas but for some reason it looked fairly special.  We went along at  about eight.  I'd been a vegetarian for about 10 years but it looked like I'd have to ‘compromise’ so I had a steak!  Seth had chicken.  I had a bottle of red and Seth had a beer.  A superb meal.  It may have been under canvas but this was quality.

 

At about 11 the site was quiet except for three French girls quietly chatting.  An English male voice boomed "will you shut up".  "I'm sorry we don't understand English!".  A few moments silence then an English female voice "oh yes you do!".  Lots of French laughter.

 

Distance: 30.41km

 

Day 2: Watten to Ypres

 

Next morning we made coffee and hot chocolate then headed into St-Omer for a boulangerie.  Picked up some bread and pastries and set off south. 

 

 

We stopped for breakfast somewhere on the D77.  We got the maps out and looked at where we should go.  We saw we were quite close to Belgium and decided to head in the direction of Ypres.

 

After Therouanne we turned east on the D157.  At Mametz we detoured to the North on very quiet roads.  Through Aire-Sur-la-Lys and then back on the D157.  This was excellent cycling along very quiet undulating roads.  The harvest was in full swing and the sun was shining.  We left the road and went along a track beside the railway.  Just before Bailleul, we turned north towards Mt Noir which was just before the Belgian border.  Seth shot up Mt Noir but I really struggled; my throat was rasping and lungs were bursting.  At one point I could see Seth walking back down the hill to see where I'd got to!  I was determined to cycle up it and I finally managed, but it hurt. (I don’t think I’ve rasped so much on a hill at any time since except possibly when we went up a dead-end track in the Pyrenees the following year)

 

We crossed the border and free wheeled down through a typical border town with shops advertising cheap fags and booze.  Presumably, both were a lot cheaper in Belgium.  Lively place with several bars.  As we were heading up Mt Rouge a "ski lift" passed overhead.  Fascinated, we stopped at the top and discovered it travelled from Mt Rouge to Mt Noir.  A local tourist attraction.  We couldn't resist!

 

 

From Mt Rouge it was mostly downhill to Ypres (or Ieper) on a cycle track alongside the N375.  Pleasant enough apart from the occasional mopeds which tooted as they approached so we'd get out of their way.  This had been a really enjoyable day’s cycling.  Although the highest point was only 150m (Mt Noir) this had been quite a hilly day.  Mostly on very pleasant quiet country roads but with the occasional small town with excellent boulangeries.  France and Belgium are excellent places to cycle.

 

At Ypres we went to tourist information to see if there was a campsite and we were directed to one down by the river.  We set up the tent and cooked a meal.  Then it was into town for some decent Belgian beer.  And good stuff it was.

 

The whole of the town centre was being dug up.  Shops, cafes and bars were open but accessible only by duckboards and temporary walkways.

 

 

 

At eight o'clock we went to the Menin Gate Memorial for the Last Post Ceremony.  There was a single bugler and only a small number of people.  As eight o'clock approached the whole town seemed to go quiet and then the bugler sounded the Last Post.  Incredibly moving.

 

 

 

Distance: 94.42

kms

 

Day 3: Ypres to Bruges

We decided to start the day by visiting some First World War cemeteries and set off towards Passendale.  We took a circuitous route following signs to the various cemeteries.  These included Tyne Cot and Passendale.  Then it was North and North West on th e N303 and the N313.  We turned north east at Gidsberg (probably because the sign pointed to Gits - where we stopped for a photo). 

Then it was generally north on mostly very quiet roads until we hit the outskirts of Bruges.  We headed to the centre; it was frustrating with the one-way streets but we managed it with a bit of cheating by nipping the wrong way occasionally.  In the centre we stopped for a look around, a drink and a snack in a pavement cafe and then tried to find a nearby campsite. A street map showing places of interest showed one out on the ring road.  We braved the one-way system again and headed in what seemed to be the right direction. It involved some faffing around but we found it eventually.  Set up camp, showered then headed back into town.  We took the bikes as it seemed quite a way to walk.

In a square in the centre we locked our bikes to some temporary railings (the sort used for public events).  We went to a couple of bars and then to a restaurant for a meal. 

 

 

A few hours later we returned to the bikes.  Or rather we tried to.  The square was full with hundreds of people watching a rock band.  Our bikes were still attached to the railings but had been moved about 50 yards to protect the stage.  The bikes were right in front of the stage.  We hung around and watched the band for a while but when it showed no sign of finishing we made our way to the front and started unlocking the bikes.  This caused great amusement to the front few rows (and the band).  It took ages to unlock them; perhaps I'd had more to drink than I thought.  When we had unlocked them it was obvious it wouldn't be sensible to try pushing them out through the throng.  So we sat and waited until the end.  Not the best band in the world but it was a laugh.  When the crowd finally dispersed we set off back to the campsite which was even more difficult to find in the dark.  Got there in the end.  Coffee /hot chocolate and bed.

Distance:

76.43  Kms plus another 6 km or so to town and back.

 

Day 4:  Bruges to Blankenberge via Holland

We got up fairly late, packed up camp and headed to the campsite cafe for coffees and a snack.  We decided we'd head into Holland and gradually make our way to the coast.

We headed north and then across the Potterierei bridge.  We got onto a cycle path beside the canal from Bruges to Sluis via Damme.

 It was overcast but a pleasant enough ride, though perhaps a little dull.  From the map we could see we had crossed into Holland but there was no other sign.

 

We went into Sluis centre and had a bite to eat.

  We then set off to explore some of the minor roads in the area.  Unfortunately the wind was picking up and it became bit of a chore.  Roads in this area did not seem to be very exciting.  So, we headed for the coast then decided to aim for Blankenberge west of Zeebrugge. 

We had a look round the town and spent a bit of time on the beach.  We located a campsite in the town and made our way to it.  The wind had picked up even more; a bit of a struggle to put the tent up.  We cooked a meal and went to the campsite cafe for a couple of drinks.

 

Distance: 54km (estimate)

 

The route (after Sluis this is based on unreliable memory rather than a record on the map)

 

Day 5: Blankenberge to Ostend and the ferry back to Ramsgate

It was very windy during the night.  It was from the West-South-West so it looked like it would be a bit of a struggle to Ostend.  And so it turned out to be.  It was only 20km but it was hard work.

Distance: 20km

I assumed we would need to buy new tickets as the returns were for Dunkirk-Ramsgate.  At the barrier I showed them and they just changed them at no extra cost!  It didn't seem long and we were on the ferry and again first on and were directed to the other end of the boat so we could be first off.  This was a longer trip than the way out.  It was too late for breakfast but we had lunch in the restaurant.

Only a short tour but it wetted my appetite.